boost leak? - Team-2G Mitsubishi Forum

flashthefabolous · 03-11-2007, 09:48 PM

i dont really know if it sounds like boost leak but i just bought a tsi awd and the first thing i notice is the coilpack isnt grounded but i can slowly hit full boost but if i step on it or try too fast the car will sputter really hard i wonder if it could be the turbo the car has 136,000 on it

totaleclipse_05 · 03-11-2007, 10:07 PM

Do a boost leak test. I'm sure it's leaking somewhere.

7inchexhaust · 03-11-2007, 10:56 PM

after boost leak test, check your turbo for shaft play.

Silk90 · 03-12-2007, 12:01 AM

and don't forget all of the basic maintenance ****, especially if you plan on modding.

SexperT · 03-12-2007, 04:27 AM

Such high mileage on stock turbo...

flashthefabolous · 03-12-2007, 05:28 AM

for real i already ordered an evo 3 16g i so i hope it is the turbo and not boost leak cuz i cant fighure out where it's coming from

totaleclipse_05 · 03-12-2007, 01:57 PM

I just read your signature and don't you need a new FPR to run a 255 fuel pump?

flashthefabolous · 03-12-2007, 09:58 PM

**** i knew it damn it

President95 · 03-12-2007, 10:31 PM

dude you need to read an upgrade path. Why did you get a tubular mani?

and I hope the evo3 is an MHI turbo

boost gauge

data logger

tuning device

???

Attack Eagle · 03-13-2007, 08:20 AM

Get rid of the tubular. All it will do is crack, and cause problems on a street car. the 2g manifold is PLENTY Good.

Also all those parts do you no good because you are missing:
General:
a boost gauge
Airflow:
an UPPER IC pipe (godspeed kit does NOT come with one)
BOV/CBV,
Open element air filter to permit UIP installation.
FUEL:
SAFC/DSMlink to permit larger injectors
AFPR + remote mount gauge to permit 255 install

Also need for turbo install: a j pipe and ss line, (+ some way to connect it to godspeed's t25 piping like the RRE J pipe to SMIC pipe) recommend new manifold bolt, andthe o2 housing and turbo to manifold gasket + 1g oil drain gasket.

Basically you have a bunch of expensive parts that you can't use yet, because every one is missing some needed accessory, except the exhaust... though those two may not match up and may need to be welded together.

OH and go to home depot (not lowes) with the turbo and get a sewer cap that will fit it, so you can use a bike pump and a T in the bov line to pressurize the system to do a boost leak test. T25 is 2" IIRC.

flashthefabolous · 03-14-2007, 11:32 PM

i guess i didnt mention some things i just bought a core off ebay a guy at a shop is making the piping for me. i have a boost gauge a dumb one but non the less it is a boost gauge damn faze. Of course the turbo is MHI i bought it from dsmparts.com also as for the fpr and afc i knew i'd need on i dont think i need it right a way bcuz i have a friend running the same set up and missing both the 2 i know the upgrade path i just dont have the money for those two right now considering i have firm reason to believe my motor is crankwalking after 136,000 miles i figured it woulda went already u know

President95 · 03-14-2007, 11:58 PM

Try some punctuation man. Its like Im reading what a 1st grader wrote, and thats insulting the 1st grader.

If you want to run your car on an upgraded fuel system, turbo, and IC (among other things) completely untuned and no logging software, go ahead. Just dont say we didnt try to say differently.

What leads you to believe you are walking?

flashthefabolous · 03-15-2007, 12:56 AM

A friend of mine walked and he said that the loud sqeaking noise and slight grind when i started my car where sure signs. Not to mention im leaking tranny fluid for some reason. The guy i bought the car from said a shop checked it out and said that it didnt look like the car was going to crankwalk. I just think it's strange because i bought the car and they had removed the clutch sensor and relocated the crank angle sensor to the left side. What do you think could i be walking?

Attack Eagle · 03-15-2007, 01:26 PM

1: you need the Safc efroe you put on the injectors. period. Anyone who tells you different is not only and idiot, but someone to avoid from then on.

2: you need the afpr before the pump. see above.

3 maybe it has already walked and that is why the CAS is moved. SO he could get it to run long enough to sell it. If you thought it was walking why did you buy a bunch of bolt ons to stick on a dead car?

totaleclipse_05 · 03-15-2007, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Attack Eagle

If you thought it was walking why did you buy a bunch of bolt ons to stick on a dead car?

Ditto.^