Clutch pops and sticks - Team-2G Mitsubishi Forum

mshale87 · 06-24-2009, 04:08 PM

My clutch developed a click-like popping noise recently. I put some wd-40 on it and it went away, but now it's back with a vengeance. Now it pops when you press the clutch pedal in and when I release. And a lot of times it will stick halfway. The clutch will be engaged and car is moving (with no slips) but the pedal will fail to return to the normal position. but it seems to shift fine otherwise.

I have tried adjusting the rod and the upper travel stopper to no avail - it will either stick or the clutch will start to slip in 4th gear. I have watched videos, and searched the site with no luck.

Anyone else have a clicking clutch?

7inchexhaust · 06-24-2009, 06:44 PM

What is doing the clicking?
The clutch pedal assembly or something else?

mshale87 · 06-24-2009, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7inchexhaust

What is doing the clicking?
The clutch pedal assembly or something else?

In pretty sure it's in the assembly. I think I've narrowed it down to the 2 connections where the spring is. At least that's what I sprayed last time.

EDIT: I sprayed it again and it still clicks, but i don't think it sticks anymore - still need to actually drive it

mshale87 · 06-25-2009, 11:32 PM

Just an update - the pedal only clicks when I push it in rather quickly. And upon further investigation my clutch fluid is a milky black. So I might wanna flush all that out, and refresh - DOT4 right?

And as of right now, when it sticks, I will pull my foot off of it and it will sometimes unstick itself and slap me in the foot, so it's not like it rises up slowly...

mshale87 · 06-28-2009, 05:31 PM

I drained all of the fluid out, washed the reservoir out, refilled with DOT 4 fluid, and bled about 2.5 reservoirs worth of fluid through the system and it made it worse. Now it sticks closer to the floor (still not engagement problems) so it makes it harder for me to pull it back up.

I did notice that it only sticks when the car is moving and I'm changing gears. I can sit in neutral and pump the clutch all day and it will not stick regardless if the car is running or not.

Is it just time for me to get a new clutch?

7inchexhaust · 06-28-2009, 07:26 PM

Yeah, somethings messed.
Possibly the throw out bearing or the clutch fork.
Once you drop the tranny you'll know.

I'd go ahead and replace the tob, clutch fork, and pivot ball, while your in there along with the clutch.

mshale87 · 06-28-2009, 08:04 PM

Cool, I actually just ordered some drivetrain parts from MAP right before you posted... I got the Competition Clutch Stage 2 kit

Quote:

(from the site: The 2100 Series kit includes a performance pressure plate, a high torque sprung disc with antiburst steel backed Carbon Kevlar facings, all applicable bearings, and the appropriate alignment tool.)

and the Fidanza Aluminum flywheel.

I also have a BMT LSD insert that I'm gonna try out, and get some BG Synchroshift too.

7inchexhaust · 06-28-2009, 10:59 PM

Are you going to be staying with mild-ish mods or are you going to keep modding?

If you are going to keep modding, I'd recommend redline MT fluid. If staying closer to stock, then the bg sycroshift II.

mshale87 · 06-28-2009, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7inchexhaust

Are you going to be staying with mild-ish mods or are you going to keep modding?

If you are going to keep modding, I'd recommend redline MT fluid. If staying closer to stock, then the bg sycroshift II.

My goal is 300 HP, so as of right now, i'm just going to stick with the small mods for now.

could it just be a bad slave cylinder getting stuck that is not allowing the pedal to return - like it's the slave cylinder holding all of the fluid still so that there is no travel? How would I check if the slave/master cylinder might be the culprit?

7inchexhaust · 06-29-2009, 12:37 AM

Have someone else pump the pedal while you check the master and slave.

mshale87 · 06-29-2009, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7inchexhaust

Have someone else pump the pedal while you check the master and slave.

Ok, I did that and everything seems to be fine, the slave moves when the pedal is pressed, and nothing is leaking.
I did notice that during the test drive when it gets stuck, it will slip the clutch. And it seems to get stuck when the spring is perfectly vertical. It's like there is no pressure at that eqilibrium point to push it back out.

BioHazard · 06-29-2009, 01:28 PM

Chuck that Fidanza TOB and go get yourself a OEM TOB. After installation, touch base with us and tell us if you still have a clicking sound.

clockworktoy · 06-29-2009, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BioHazard

Chuck that Fidanza TOB and go get yourself a OEM TOB. After installation, touch base with us and tell us if you still have a clicking sound.

+1 I don't used anything else but OEM TOB's on my car and on my customers cars for a good reason. Ive had bad luck with aftermarket TOB's so OEM is the way to go.

mshale87 · 06-30-2009, 03:06 PM

OEM TOB it is then! lol

new update after bleeding it again following the instructions for bleeding the master 5 times and then bleeding the slave. It doesn't really stick anymore but it does return slowly after a shift. The odd thing is that if I put it in neutral and pump the clutch once and then do the shift (like double clutching) then there is no problem - it's not spongy half way down and then normal the other half, and there is no slowness; and if I dump the clutch after doing that then it really grabs. But when it's slow to return, I can snatch my foot off the clutch and it will slowly let itself out and then pop me in the foot about 1 second later.

Oh yeah, and the clutch drags too. Tested on flat surface in first gear clutch pedal to the floor and the car slowly moved forward around 6k rpms.

MercenaryX2 · 06-30-2009, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mshale87

But when it's slow to return, I can snatch my foot off the clutch and it will slowly let itself out and then pop me in the foot about 1 second later.

Sounds like what my car did before I replaced the master and slave.

06-24-2009, 04:08 PM	#1
mshale87 Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: T-town, Alabama Posts: 112	Clutch pops and sticks My clutch developed a click-like popping noise recently. I put some wd-40 on it and it went away, but now it's back with a vengeance. Now it pops when you press the clutch pedal in and when I release. And a lot of times it will stick halfway. The clutch will be engaged and car is moving (with no slips) but the pedal will fail to return to the normal position. but it seems to shift fine otherwise. I have tried adjusting the rod and the upper travel stopper to no avail - it will either stick or the clutch will start to slip in 4th gear. I have watched videos, and searched the site with no luck. Anyone else have a clicking clutch?

06-24-2009, 06:44 PM	#2
7inchexhaust Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,627	What is doing the clicking? The clutch pedal assembly or something else? __________________ 2g awd \| evo III 16g \| TiAL 38mm & 3" turboback \| Fidanza 4.3 \| ARP's \| AEM UEGO \| FMIC \| rewired evo fp/ 550cc injectors \| DizzumLink \| HKS SSQV \| Please read and follow the RULES Jesus may have walked on water, but 7inchexhaust swam through land.

06-25-2009, 11:32 PM	#4
mshale87 Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: T-town, Alabama Posts: 112	Just an update - the pedal only clicks when I push it in rather quickly. And upon further investigation my clutch fluid is a milky black. So I might wanna flush all that out, and refresh - DOT4 right? And as of right now, when it sticks, I will pull my foot off of it and it will sometimes unstick itself and slap me in the foot, so it's not like it rises up slowly... Last edited by mshale87; 06-26-2009 at 12:24 AM.

06-28-2009, 07:26 PM	#6
7inchexhaust Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,627	Yeah, somethings messed. Possibly the throw out bearing or the clutch fork. Once you drop the tranny you'll know. I'd go ahead and replace the tob, clutch fork, and pivot ball, while your in there along with the clutch. __________________ 2g awd \| evo III 16g \| TiAL 38mm & 3" turboback \| Fidanza 4.3 \| ARP's \| AEM UEGO \| FMIC \| rewired evo fp/ 550cc injectors \| DizzumLink \| HKS SSQV \| Please read and follow the RULES Jesus may have walked on water, but 7inchexhaust swam through land.

06-28-2009, 10:59 PM	#8
7inchexhaust Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,627	Are you going to be staying with mild-ish mods or are you going to keep modding? If you are going to keep modding, I'd recommend redline MT fluid. If staying closer to stock, then the bg sycroshift II. __________________ 2g awd \| evo III 16g \| TiAL 38mm & 3" turboback \| Fidanza 4.3 \| ARP's \| AEM UEGO \| FMIC \| rewired evo fp/ 550cc injectors \| DizzumLink \| HKS SSQV \| Please read and follow the RULES Jesus may have walked on water, but 7inchexhaust swam through land.

06-28-2009, 05:31 PM	#5
mshale87 Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: T-town, Alabama Posts: 112	I drained all of the fluid out, washed the reservoir out, refilled with DOT 4 fluid, and bled about 2.5 reservoirs worth of fluid through the system and it made it worse. Now it sticks closer to the floor (still not engagement problems) so it makes it harder for me to pull it back up. I did notice that it only sticks when the car is moving and I'm changing gears. I can sit in neutral and pump the clutch all day and it will not stick regardless if the car is running or not. Is it just time for me to get a new clutch?

06-29-2009, 12:37 AM	#10
7inchexhaust Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,627	Have someone else pump the pedal while you check the master and slave. __________________ 2g awd \| evo III 16g \| TiAL 38mm & 3" turboback \| Fidanza 4.3 \| ARP's \| AEM UEGO \| FMIC \| rewired evo fp/ 550cc injectors \| DizzumLink \| HKS SSQV \| Please read and follow the RULES Jesus may have walked on water, but 7inchexhaust swam through land.

06-30-2009, 03:06 PM	#14
mshale87 Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: T-town, Alabama Posts: 112	OEM TOB it is then! lol new update after bleeding it again following the instructions for bleeding the master 5 times and then bleeding the slave. It doesn't really stick anymore but it does return slowly after a shift. The odd thing is that if I put it in neutral and pump the clutch once and then do the shift (like double clutching) then there is no problem - it's not spongy half way down and then normal the other half, and there is no slowness; and if I dump the clutch after doing that then it really grabs. But when it's slow to return, I can snatch my foot off the clutch and it will slowly let itself out and then pop me in the foot about 1 second later. Oh yeah, and the clutch drags too. Tested on flat surface in first gear clutch pedal to the floor and the car slowly moved forward around 6k rpms. Last edited by mshale87; 06-30-2009 at 03:32 PM.

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