This writeup is for you if you're wanting to replace your excuse-for-a-turbo stock T25 with a MHI turbo such as a 14b or 16g. This writeup will be based on my personal experience. Attempt at your own risk.
Parts needed:
MHI turbo (14b/16g)
SS -4AN Oil Feed Line
SMIC J-pipe w/ gasket
SMIC L-pipe
3/8 Heater Hose with clamps
New o2 Housing Gasket
New Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Oil Drain Gaskets (Oil Pan/Turbo)
1g Oil Drain Pipe (I modified the 2g but buying the 1g will be a lot easier for you)
3" long, 2.25" diameter Coupler
4" long, 2.25" diameter Coupler
4 T-bolt Clamps
High Temp RTV Silicon
Tools needed:
Phillips/Flathead Screwdriver
3/8 Ratchet and various extensions
3/8 Socket Set
Metric Wrench Set
Pliers
Drill with 1/2" Bit
Hex Bit (not sure of size)
Torque Wrench
Step 1: Getting Access to Remove the Turbo
Go ahead and jack up the vehicle and put it on jack stands.
DO IT.
First thing we need to do is drain the oil and coolant. If you can't do this by yourself, you don't need to be doing this install.
Go ahead and remove the intake. You can follow these steps
here if you can't figure it out.
Remove the coolant reservoir. Just lift up on it and it comes out.
Now with the coolant drained, take off the upper and lower radiator hoses.
Now with the radiator hoses off, we need take the radiator out to give us a lot more room to work with. There's two brackets, one on each side of the radiator that are held on by 12mm bolts. Remove these bolts and the brackets.
You will need to disconnect the radiator fan connectors as well. Now you will be able to lift up the radiator and remove it from the engine bay. Go ahead and remove the exhaust manifold heat shield as well. The bolts have 12mm heads. I believe there's a total of 7 or 8 bolts that hold both heatshields on.
Step 2: Removing the Turbo
Now you can go ahead and remove the lower IC "pipe" (more or less a hose). Go ahead and remove the vacuum line going from the wastegate to the wastegate solenoid as well.
The other side of the IC "pipe" connects to the SMIC. Take this side of the hose off as well.
Go ahead and remove the rubber hoses going from the thermostat housing to the turbo water lines.
Now we need to remove the oil drain pipe from the turbo and oil pan. The bolts are 10mm and 12mm.
I had to include the picture of my hand taking this damn thing off lol.
With only the stock oil feed line attached to the turbo, now we need to remove the exhaust manifold bolts so we can swing the turbo forward.
YOU HAVE TO DO THIS STEP FIRST BEFORE YOU CAN REMOVE THE O2 HOUSING.
Now with the turbo swung forward, this will give you access to take off the o2 housing. The bolts are either 12mm or 14mm.
Now with just the oil feed line on the turbo, remove the oil filter location end first.
Then remove the few 10mm bolts that hold the stock oil feed line to the block.
Now you remove the stock oil feed line from the turbo.
Now that POS of a turbo can be removed from your engine bay.
Watch the video
here.
TAKE A BREAK NOW. YOU DESERVE IT.
Step 3: Installing New MHI Turbo
Now we need to take the old water lines off the T25 and put them on the MHI 14b/16g turbo. Remove them from the T25 and install them on the MHI 14b/16g on the same ports accordingly. Remove the old 3/8 hose and install with new hose.
Now with the water lines put on the 14b/16g, you can put it in the engine bay. Go ahead and attach the turbo to the o2 housing with the new o2 housing gasket. Sorry, no pic here, camera died :\
Now with the turbo installed onto the o2 housing, you are still able to swing it back and forth. Now would be a good time to install the SS oil feed line. Be sure to use the new crush washers that came with the feed line.
Go ahead and install the other end of the oil feed line to the oil filter location.
Now go ahead and install the turbo to the exhaust manifold with the new mani gasket. Torque the bolts to 33 ft/lbs.
Next is to install the water lines with the 3/8" hose to the thermostat housing outlets. There's a total of three hoses. One's on the very bottom in the picture and you can't really see it.
Next thing we need to do is put on the oil return pipe.
Getting a 1g return pipe is a lot easier than modifying the 2g return pipe. If you decide to modify the 2g oil return pipe, you have to drill out the bolt holes bigger to get them to line up to the 14b/16g turbo.
Be sure to use the new gaskets you bought with a little RTV.
Now with the o2 housing/exhaust manifold/water lines/oil lines installed, it's now time to attack the IC pipes. First thing to do is install the J-pipe with the new gasket to go with it. Then attach the L-pipe to the J-pipe with the couplers and T-bolt clamps you bought.
Attach the other end of the L-pipe to the SMIC with the 4" coupler and T-bolt clamps.
Install the Vacuum hose that you took off the T25 turbo to the nipple on the L-pipe.
Go ahead and hook up the vacuum hose from the wastegate solenoid to the wastegate on the 14b/16g that you took off the T25 wastegate.
Step 4: Reassembling the Car
We're almost done! Go ahead and install the heat shields back onto the manifold/o2 housing.
Now we can go ahead and install the radiator back in the car. Just drop it in and install the brackets back on.
Go ahead and install the upper and lower radiator hoses back on the radiator.
Now you can go ahead and install the intake pipe back on. These instructions can be found
here if you can't figure it out.
Now put coolant and oil back into the car.
Pull the engine fuse out and crank the car to get oil running through the new oil lines. Crank it over about 10 times, put the engine fuse back in, and start the car up. Check for any oil/coolant leaks. If there are any, address immediately. If no leaks, go out for a test run and see how she feels! If boost feels a lot better, then congratulations, you just installed a MHI turbo on your 2g DSM. Enjoy the boost and pwnin shit. Don't be suprised if you blow a coupler a couple of times, this is normal, just fix it betta.
Final result picture:
Copyright Jack Stewart Writeups Inc. 2008
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